Optimation Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC) and Carbopol in Peel-Off Gel Mask Antioxidant Jamblang Leaf Extract (Syzygium cumini L.)

Abstract

Jamblang is a plant with very strong antioxidant activity with compounds such as quercetin, flavonoids, and elagic acid. Antioxidant compounds can inhibit or prevent problems that  arise when exposed to free radicals, especially the skin. Antioxidants are widely used in cosmetics for facial care, one of which is a peel-off gel mask. The gel base used can affect the viscosity, which plays an important role in the release of active substances, HPMC and carbopol is a gel base that is often used in making gel preparations with different physicochemical properties. The purpose of this study was to determine the comparison of the composition of the combination of HPMC and carbopol base in order to get a peel-off gel mask preparation with optimum characteristics. This research carried out an optimization of the two bases with the simplex lattice design method using expert design software version 12 (trial). The responses used are pH, viscosity and IC50 then characterization included organoleptic, homogeneity, diffusion power, adhesion and drying time for the formula optimum. The results showed that HPMC was more influential in increasing the pH value, while carbopol was more influential in increasing viscosity and IC50. Prediction of the design software expert version 12 (trial) optimum formula with a comparison of HPMC: Carbopol concentration is 75%: 25% has a pH of 5.963, viscosity 54.167 dPa.s and IC50 value 74.187 ppm. The characteristics of the optimum formula produced are brownish yellow gel with the characteristic aroma of a homogeneous extract. The optimum formula produced has a spreading capacity of 5-7 cm, an average adhesion of 36 second, and an average drying time of 21 minutes.